Spring Home Maintenance: 14 Tasks Worth Putting on Your List

Scan your roof from the ground using binoculars, or hire a professional for a closer look. Look for missing, curled, or cracked shingles, damaged flashing around chimneys and vents, and any visible sagging. Winter ice dams can loosen shingles and compromise flashing seals. Addressing small issues now prevents water intrusion later. For a deeper look at year-round roof care, see our roof maintenance through the seasons guide.

Gutters clogged with winter debris — leaves, seed pods, granules shed from shingles — can't channel water away from your foundation. Remove debris by hand or with a gutter scoop, then flush with a garden hose to confirm flow. Check that downspouts direct water at least three feet from the foundation. Inspect hangers and fasteners for looseness caused by ice weight.

Cold temperatures cause caulking around windows, doors, and utility penetrations to crack and shrink. Press your finger along existing caulk lines — if they feel brittle or show gaps, they need replacement. Similarly, test weatherstripping by closing a door on a piece of paper; if it slides out easily, the seal is insufficient. Re-caulking and replacing weatherstripping improves both energy efficiency and moisture protection.

Walk the perimeter of your home and examine the foundation at grade level. Hairline cracks are common and often cosmetic, but horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in brick or block, or any crack wider than about 1/4 inch warrants professional evaluation. Water can exploit even small openings during heavy spring rains. Document what you find with photos so you can monitor whether cracks grow over time.

Press the test button on every smoke and carbon monoxide detector in your home. Replace batteries in units that use them — even if they haven't chirped yet. Check the manufacture date on each unit: smoke detectors are generally recommended for replacement every 10 years, and carbon monoxide detectors every 5–7 years (confirm the manufacturer's guidance on your specific model). This is a quick task that takes under 15 minutes for most homes.

Before you switch from heat to air conditioning, replace or clean your air filter, clear debris from around the outdoor condenser unit, and gently straighten any bent fins with a fin comb if accessible. Schedule a professional tune-up if you haven't had one in the past year — a technician can check refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and coil condition. Our guide on HVAC filters, vents, and coils clarifies which tasks are DIY-appropriate and which require a licensed technician.

Sediment naturally accumulates at the bottom of tank-style water heaters over time, reducing efficiency and potentially shortening the unit's lifespan. Flushing involves connecting a hose to the drain valve and letting water run until it clears. Turn off the heater's power or gas supply first, and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. If your water heater is older than 8–10 years, a flush is also a good opportunity to inspect the anode rod — a component that helps prevent tank corrosion.

Even if your pipes didn't visibly freeze, winter cold can stress joints and connections. Look under sinks, in utility areas, and around exposed pipes in crawl spaces or garages for damp spots, staining, or corrosion. Run water to outdoor hose bibs (spigots) and check for leaks — freeze damage often first appears here. Reconnect garden hoses you removed for winter storage and confirm the bib shuts off cleanly.

Look for signs of moisture damage — swollen wood, soft spots, or peeling paint — around window frames and door jambs. Winter condensation and ice can work water into these areas, leading to rot if left unaddressed. Test that double-hung windows open, close, and lock smoothly; if they've swollen or shifted, the frame or hardware may need attention. Repaint any bare wood to protect against further moisture entry.

Winter condensation can accumulate in poorly ventilated attics, leading to mold or wood rot that's invisible from below. On a dry spring day, use a flashlight to inspect the underside of roof decking for dark staining, soft spots, or frost residue. Also confirm that soffit vents aren't blocked by insulation and that ridge vents appear clear. Proper airflow through the attic is essential for both moisture control and energy efficiency year-round.

Freeze-thaw cycles are particularly hard on outdoor wood structures. Walk your deck and press a screwdriver into several boards — soft or spongy wood indicates rot. Check ledger boards (where the deck attaches to the house), posts, and stair stringers carefully, as structural failures often begin in these areas. Tighten any loose fasteners, and look for popped nails or screws across decking surfaces. If you have a concrete patio, inspect for new cracking or heaving caused by frost movement.

Winter can leave bare patches, compacted soil, and matted grass in its wake. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently above freezing and the soil isn't waterlogged, you can aerate compacted areas and overseed bare patches. Rake out dead grass thatch if it's thicker than about half an inch. For a full spring lawn plan, our spring lawn and garden readiness checklist walks through preparation by priority.

Before the mowing season begins, change the oil in your lawn mower (if it's a four-stroke engine), sharpen the blade, replace the spark plug if needed, and check the air filter. For gas-powered equipment stored with fuel over winter, drain old fuel or use a fuel stabilizer the following fall to prevent gumming. Inspect hoses, nozzles, and connections on sprinkler systems for freeze damage before turning the system on.

Finish your spring assessment with a slow, deliberate walk around the entire exterior. Look at grading — the slope of the ground near your foundation — and confirm it directs water away from the house rather than toward it. Note any tree limbs that came down over winter and assess whether any living branches overhang the roof or power lines. Compile a running list of repairs and prioritize them by urgency, safety, and budget. This final step ties together everything you've observed and sets a clear repair plan.